montefalco and antonelli wineyard and visiing umbria

We started our day trip on Saturday, July 1, by winding through the hilly countryside to the North and West of Spoleto. We probably should have realized that taking one-lane narrow country roads would not be the best thing to do, inasmuch as we couldn't find the village 5 km from Spoleto where we were supposed to make the "big turn" to the north. Nevertheless we proceeded on, without water (as usual), towards Montefalco.

We arrived at Montefalco in the early afternoon, about 12:50. This medieval town is so attractive from a distance because it towers over the surrounding valleys. Thus, it has earned the name of the "balustrade" of Umbria. We hastened to the major attraction of the town for us, the Church of San Francesco, which was said to house the most stunning frescoes of the life of St. Francis and St. Jerome by Benozzo Gozzoli. Indeed, there is now a "church-museum" complex with an attractive bookstore which would have been the highlight of our trip. But, since we arrived at 12:50, the big sign CHIUSO was about ready to descend. So, we decided not to go in for ten minutes, and proceeded up to the town square where we looked for shops that were open. The only things open were a linen shop, where Virginia bought several placemats (I learned a new Italian word---"un setto Americano"--is the Italian expression for the napkin and placemat) and a wine bar where she decided to taste some local wines. Actually, we discovered Trebbiano Spoletino on the trip, one of the most delicious and full-bodied white wines I have ever sampled.

On to a Winery

There really wasn't any reason to hang around Montefalco, and so we decided to drive around the countryside in search of a winery. We heard that there were many and managed to find a map with "cantina"-signs--indications that wineries were in the vicinity. The first one we found was just outside of town, and we followed a fast-moving Fiat to a building we thought was a winery. We entered into the parking lot through an automatic metal door that closed after us, drove to the entrance of the building and then tried to get in. The door was locked. Not a person was in sight. We tried to get out of the parking lot, but the metal gate wasn't budging. Finally, after several frustrating moments we rousted someone from the building who let us out of the parking lot. I had visions of dying in the heat outside a hermetically sealed building near Montefalco while we were looking for a winery.

But our persistence was rewarded, as we pulled into the Antonelli vineyards precisely at 2:30, when its tasting room was opening for the afternoon. Antonelli is on SS. 316 on the way to Bastardo, of all towns, just West of Montefalco. Its web site is www.antonellisanmarco.it, if you were curious. We tasted four wines, almost none of which have any circulation in the Western United States. I liked the "Vigna Tonda Grechetto." As the Italian brochure we picked up says, it has a "bouquet intenso e persistente, gusto (taste) secco (dry), morbido (having nothing to do with killing you), di mandorla e vaniglia." I brought home a bottle of it, expecting to break it open for some kind of party but two days later my ex came to the house looking for something and I decided to see if she wanted my bottle of Grechetto. It has been a hard year for her. She eagerly accepted. I still have a half bottle of the "Montefalco Rosso," which is a combination of Sangiovese (65%), Merlot (10%), Sagrantino (15%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). I wonder if I will ever get a sip of this or give it away, too, out of the kindness of my heart.

On to the Marmore

We really could have hung out at the winery for a long time, but we decided to dash back toward Spoleto and visit the astonishingly impressive 500 or so foot high waterfall, called the Marmore Waterfall. Corot painted it. Byron rhapsodized over it and now has a plaza named after him (Byron Plaza) at the foot of the Marmore. It is hard to express how refreshing the "flung spray and the blown spume" (to quote John Masefield) was on a 95 degree day. So, here is a picture of the Marmore:

This waterfall reminded me of Multnomah Falls in Oregon. Here you have a full sheet of water, with a small tributary to the side, crashing down about 250 feet or so, and then you have a large pool and sort of river that then takes you to the second plunge. There is yet one more plunge which didn't make it on this picture. We didn't have time to climb to the top--a fact which disappointed both of us.

I loved the rainbows sent off by the crashing and glistening water. I tried to take a picture of one, and I reproduce it here.

Isn't that beautiful? This is taken from just below the second plunge, and tries to capture the hovering bow. I really could have stayed there all day, climbing to the top, seeing things from various angles, listening to deep calling to deep, basking in the cool spray of the Marmore.

But, we had to get back to Spoleto for the evening round of concerts. We took a mountain route back to our Hotel, and we were astonished to discover that as we wended our way in the mountain roads and looked back, far back, towards the Marmore Waterfall, that we could see the water plunging even from several miles away. I took a picture of it, and hope it comes out for you.

At this point we were several hundred feet above the valley floor, and we looked back, and there was the waterfall. It almost looks as if water is being disgorged from the middle of the hill, sort of like a white tongue sticking out of a large face. It was a pleasant memory to take back with us to Spoleto.

Conclusion

These two days were nearly two full days of road trips in Umbria. The most important thing, however, is to plan your day around the 2 1/2 hour siesta in the afternoon. Even the Marmore Waterfall is closed during these hours. Oh, it isn't as if they can keep the water from flowing, but they don't let you go in the park at this time. Plan your drives, hikes or church visits during the rest hours and then, when they are over, go right for the other attractions. You will find a delightful world throughout Umbria.

1961